November 9, 2022

THE MISUNDERSTOOD: COSMETIC ITEMS THAT GET A BAD RAP

BY MIXST STUDIO

There’s a laundry list of “baddies” in the beauty industry: materials and ingredients that are thought to be harmful to humans or the planet. Yes, some of them deserve their notorious reputation. Formaldehyde, for example, is a known carcinogen, which means it may cause cancer. But some packaging materials and ingredients, such as certain plastics, silicones, and preservatives, may have been unfairly vilified. So let’s talk about how these agents got a bad reputation and why we need to set the record straight.

Plastics

Because plastic is said to pile up in landfills and pollute ocean floors, the race has been on to find alternatives to plastic packaging. But some experts say all plastics aren’t the problem they are purported to be. For example, research has shown that 97% of all plastics can be recycled when done properly. In addition, more sustainable plastics, such as post-recycled polypropylene (PP), can reduce the carbon footprint because they’re already used materials. Plus, alternatives to plastics often require more water consumption (processing wood fibers to create paper uses far more water than other materials).

Silicones

Silicones are polymers that smooth strands and prevent frizz in hair products. In makeup and skincare, these polymers give their products their slip and skin a smooth appearance (think makeup primers). As ingredients, silicones are safe. There’s no research to support that they’re harmful to human health. What about your skin and hair? Experts say non-soluble silicones (which means they don’t dissolve in water) can build up in your hair, causing it to look or feel dull and dry over time. Soluble silicones don’t have this issue. And all silicones can protect hair from heat damage.

Preservatives

Since parabens, a class of preservatives, came under fire for potentially increasing cancer risk, all preservatives got a bad rap. (Side note: Research has shown parabens are safe, but brands won’t formulate them now due to consumer demand.) But here’s the thing: Any product developed with water needs a preservative system, or it will grow mold. Preservatives kill germs, bacteria, and fungi in a formula, so you don’t get an infection. Products can also smell different or change colors if not preserved. Fortunately, several cosmetic preservatives are perfectly safe and well-regulated by the FDA.

Sulfates

You’ll often see shampoo labeled “sulfate-free,” but what are sulfates, and why are they considered bad? Sulfates are cleansing agents. They are ingredients that make soaps and shampoos lather and foam up as you cleanse. So, why go sulfate-free? Some sulfates can be harsh and strip hair and skin of essential oils, but there are gentler ones to choose from when formulating. Also, those with color-treated hair may want to avoid sulfates to help keep color longer. But are sulfates bad for you? Beyond irritation, there’s no research to prove sulfates cause health issues.  

Bottom line: There’s a lot of fear-mongering and green-washing in the beauty industry, but some of the so-called “bad” ingredients deserve a deeper look—and aren’t so bad after all.

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